The journey of a jewel: a new design comes to life

Our product development process is a labour of real love, from start to finish!

From devising and designing to the final polish, each stage is thoughtful and lovingly considered.

Every piece we create passes through many hands and stages before it lands in your jewellery box. Here’s how a new Carrie Elizabeth jewel comes to life…

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From design to jewellery...

Setting the direction

Before we even put pencil to paper, we take time to decide what direction we want a new piece or collection to go in.

We collect observations from jewellery fairs and seasonal fashion shows to build up a picture of what stories and styles are resonating.

We're also love looking to vintage jewellery. Carrie's own collection and her visits to antique stores and fairs provide a constant stream of inspiration!

Most importantly, we consider what our customers are already enjoying and asking for. We speak with our customer service team and talk with you on social media so that everything we produce is connected to you!

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Moodboarding

Next, we pull together two different kinds of moodboard.

The first sets the story and tone of the collection. For example, if we’re tapping into a romance theme, we might gather ethereal, whimsical imagery to help put us in that mindset.

The second mood board focuses on aesthetic inspiration. We might pull together images of vintage jewellery, flowers, lace or fabric textures - anything from which we could draw ideas for silhouettes, motifs and details.

Initial Designs

At this stage, we start sketching. We begin by drawing lots of initial ideas quickly and roughly, getting all the possibilities out on paper.

From there, we narrow down our ideas and explore the strongest directions. We draw pieces from multiple views – front, side and underneath – and play with sizing, scale and decorative detail.

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Collaboration

At this stage, we involve our suppliers. They are talented artisans, so we always welcome suggestions and technical insight as we refine our ideas.

Once a year, we travel to visit our suppliers in person. These trips are intensive and full-on! We spend long days choosing chains, comparing stones, reviewing samples and talking new techniques.

But these days are also so invigorating. There’s nothing like being able to hold materials in your hands, see stones in different lights, and make decisions together in person.

Visiting our Artisans

We genuinely love working with our suppliers. Over the years, these relationships have become close partnerships, built on trust, creativity and passion for jewellery.

We talk endlessly about new ideas, materials and processes, in conversations which usually continue into the evening, over dinner!

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Modelling

Whether we're working together in person or talking over email, the next stage of the process is where things get three-dimensional!

When we’re all agreed on a new design, our artisans create a CAD (Computer Aided Design) model. This allows us to see the piece from every angle and make any final tweaks before production. 

Once approved, the design is 3D printed, creating a physical model to be tested and sampled.

Creating a master

This finalised piece is called a ‘master’, and this is used to create a mould from which future pieces can be reproduced.

Liquid wax is poured into the mould, creating wax versions of the piece with an attached stalk, known as a 'sprue'. These waxes are all assembled by the sprue onto a central core of wax, creating a 'tree'.

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Lost Wax Casting

The wax tree is encased in plaster inside metal cans. These cans are heated in a furnace, which causes the wax inside to melt.

This leaves empty spaces inside the plaster in the shape of the jewellery, which a 'channel' running to each one.

Molten metal, such as brass, sterling silver or gold, is poured into the plaster, usually under centrifugal force to help the metal reach all the fine detail before it cools.

This process is known as ‘lost wax casting’ or ‘investment casting’, an ancient method of jewellery production still used today!

Fabrication

When the now metal ‘tree’ of pieces emerges, each piece is individually cut away to be assembled and finished.

Our artisans file away excess metal and smooth the surface, and carefully solder together individual components.

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Setting Gemstones

We personally select the stones that go into our jewellery, setting a meticulous quality standard that our artisans follow for each and every piece.

Each stone is set individually by hand, a highly skilled and time-intensive process that makes every piece incredibly special!

Polishing & Plating

After setting, each piece is flawlessly polished to its final finish.

If a piece is to be plated, the surface is thoroughly cleaned to ensure the gold or silver layer adheres perfectly and smoothly.

The piece is then suspended into a plating bath containing a liquid solution infused with gold or silver. An electrical current is passed through the solution, causing microscopic precious metal particles to bond evenly to the surface of the jewellery.

Our vermeil jewellery gets extra time in the bath to achieve its extra-thick layer of gold.

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Quality Control

Once polished, plated and dried, every piece goes through a final quality check.

New samples are sent to us for approval. If we decide we might want to add a piece to our range, we conduct a wear test.

Wear-testing new designs allows us to check they are comfortable, durable and practical to wear. We're always on the lookout for fabric-snagging claws, fiddly clasps or necklaces that don't lie flat. We're all about the details after all, and that includes how a piece feels!

And after all this, a brand new piece is ready to start a fresh journey - with you!

So much care and thought goes into every new jewel we launch, which is why we love hearing what you think. We pass all feedback onto our artisans, too - it means so much to all of us.

Here are some more photos from our trips. Watch this space to see what our finds become...!

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